My Phonaks (I use L90's) have two features called "speechSensor" and "StereoZoom" which are intended to detect speech sounds from any direction and amplify them while disregarding or actively blocking out background noise, depending on preference. I am not an audiophilic pervert who can tell you how all this works but I found a
Oh wow. Thank you for that in depth experience and info. We will check them both out on the specs and then try them, price is not really a factor, I just want her to be happy and comfortable and I read in a lot of Forums that you get what you pay for. I will keep posting in this thread as we narrow down which ones to try and her experiences with them so hopefully others can benefit from it all. I think a Ai processor might be the way though for most areas because hearing is such a complex game between the ear and the brain. If it works I am all for it however I totally understand everyone being concerned about decisions made by a computer. Thank you
Just a Update for all, I did check the spark with the online light, strong and good, did a compression test, great, so pointing it to a bad injector. I poured some seafoam injector cleaner in and burned through two fuel tanks, the fault cleared in the ecu however with the heat gun I still see it's not firing right. Will update this once I have the injectors out.
Just a Update for all, I did check the spark with the online light, strong and good, did a compression test, great, so pointing it to a bad injector. I poured some seafoam injector cleaner in and burned through two fuel tanks, the fault cleared in the ecu however with the heat gun I still see it's not firing right. Will update this once I have the injectors out.
Additional. Distributor cap screws. Putting the cap back on. Turn the screws the wrong way. You will feel it lift then drop. This is when you start to snug it down. Failure to do that may start new threads in the plastic housing causing the holes to strip out.
I have a spare cap. Screws were confirmed good when I out the new one in. I thought about no spark but when I had the cable disconnected and heard the arc jump I knew spark Was made. Anyhow will slap it on tomorrow and see.
ok ok you guys are correct, I am a mupet, I did have the pool size too low. However today a disk supposedly failed but crystal shows it perfectly fine so as you said I am ditching storage spaces. It does not seem like a safe option. Thanks everyone for the input.
This is when I started having the issue. I found that turning my mobile network (not mobile data, there's a little toggle that says "use sim") off and on worked as well.
Can’t it be run from side to the other with a short hose. Completing the recirculating. Not sure if I make any different, but a short heater hose is better than a poly line.
Yes you are right. Polybraid isn't rated for the temperature. It's just temporary what I had laying around. What I am wondering is is it necessary to run another heater bypass or can I leave it capped as is?
So I did not hook up the heater in my project car and just plugged it and used the poly braid hose on the suction. There is still a bypass, turquoise arrow returning back to the engine. I have read a lot of posts about how a heater needs to be put in older small blocks to provide coolant flow when the thermostat is closed. Looking at the bypass I wonder if I need to run a additional hose from the heater supply back to the pump or if leaving it plugged is fine. Any thoughts? Coolant flow diagram? Experience? Ideas?
So when I start the car it runs but the alternator doesn't get power on the purple cable. If I hook up positive to the purple cable from the battery direct then it charges no problem. I could just wire it to the ignition switch of course but if I can get the ecu to start controlling the alternator again that would be great. The car sat for a year so it could be anything really. But I'd love to hear your ideas. TIA
I visually had a look with the engine running and it seems like the flex plate wobbles fore and aft.it also sounds metallic from underneath the car. Do i have to drop the transmission to check the flex plate completely?
Cut out the hood if you wanna be fancy put a hood scoop on or something to hide it
Last resort but yes I have been browsing hood scoops on Amazon already 😂
Sorry I am a noob, I don't know how to send pictures in comments. I sent it to you via message
My Phonaks (I use L90's) have two features called "speechSensor" and "StereoZoom" which are intended to detect speech sounds from any direction and amplify them while disregarding or actively blocking out background noise, depending on preference. I am not an audiophilic pervert who can tell you how all this works but I found a
Oh wow. Thank you for that in depth experience and info. We will check them both out on the specs and then try them, price is not really a factor, I just want her to be happy and comfortable and I read in a lot of Forums that you get what you pay for. I will keep posting in this thread as we narrow down which ones to try and her experiences with them so hopefully others can benefit from it all. I think a Ai processor might be the way though for most areas because hearing is such a complex game between the ear and the brain. If it works I am all for it however I totally understand everyone being concerned about decisions made by a computer. Thank you
Less than 6 months (I'm a fairly new HA user) but I love them. I wish I had gotten them sooner (I'm in my 30s).
Which model do you have?
Just a Update for all, I did check the spark with the online light, strong and good, did a compression test, great, so pointing it to a bad injector. I poured some seafoam injector cleaner in and burned through two fuel tanks, the fault cleared in the ecu however with the heat gun I still see it's not firing right. Will update this once I have the injectors out.
Just a Update for all, I did check the spark with the online light, strong and good, did a compression test, great, so pointing it to a bad injector. I poured some seafoam injector cleaner in and burned through two fuel tanks, the fault cleared in the ecu however with the heat gun I still see it's not firing right. Will update this once I have the injectors out.
Additional. Distributor cap screws. Putting the cap back on. Turn the screws the wrong way. You will feel it lift then drop. This is when you start to snug it down. Failure to do that may start new threads in the plastic housing causing the holes to strip out.
I have a spare cap. Screws were confirmed good when I out the new one in. I thought about no spark but when I had the cable disconnected and heard the arc jump I knew spark Was made. Anyhow will slap it on tomorrow and see.
ok ok you guys are correct, I am a mupet, I did have the pool size too low. However today a disk supposedly failed but crystal shows it perfectly fine so as you said I am ditching storage spaces. It does not seem like a safe option. Thanks everyone for the input.
Probably close to 10 (3*5 with a single parity) but lost some space and is rounding down?
I added the picture, forgot it initially. Thanks.
Does anyone have a idea?
Rotate...
Thank you for the feedback. I just did it and put it in a new post.
Started last week after the new update
That's strange. I did get a update 5th December and haven't had one since. Come on Google.
This is when I started having the issue. I found that turning my mobile network (not mobile data, there's a little toggle that says "use sim") off and on worked as well.
I tried that. Still no joy. Lte and all but apostrophies on the signal bar strengths
Can’t it be run from side to the other with a short hose. Completing the recirculating. Not sure if I make any different, but a short heater hose is better than a poly line.
Yes you are right. Polybraid isn't rated for the temperature. It's just temporary what I had laying around. What I am wondering is is it necessary to run another heater bypass or can I leave it capped as is?
So I did not hook up the heater in my project car and just plugged it and used the poly braid hose on the suction. There is still a bypass, turquoise arrow returning back to the engine. I have read a lot of posts about how a heater needs to be put in older small blocks to provide coolant flow when the thermostat is closed. Looking at the bypass I wonder if I need to run a additional hose from the heater supply back to the pump or if leaving it plugged is fine. Any thoughts? Coolant flow diagram? Experience? Ideas?
Update. Just hooked it to the ignition 12v positive and it charges fine now.
So when I start the car it runs but the alternator doesn't get power on the purple cable. If I hook up positive to the purple cable from the battery direct then it charges no problem. I could just wire it to the ignition switch of course but if I can get the ecu to start controlling the alternator again that would be great. The car sat for a year so it could be anything really. But I'd love to hear your ideas. TIA
It looks like a stretched timing chain is enough to give you a p1345 code.
I ll get the other errors sorted and see. If the 22 is the actual number why does it go up to 30 at higher revs?
Because thats what gas engines do. It takes time for all the fuel to burn so at hogher revs you have to ignight it sooner so it all burns.
Ok cool. Thanks for the info. I will try with the codes sorted and report back.
So turns out it is the engine done.needs rebuild.
They should have. That sound is too rhythmic to be a rod or bearing. Since you can see it, take a look and see if you see cracking
Cool thanks for the idea. I will block it up tomorrow and inspect it.
I visually had a look with the engine running and it seems like the flex plate wobbles fore and aft.it also sounds metallic from underneath the car. Do i have to drop the transmission to check the flex plate completely?
Which miner do you recommend to buy instead then? Does a ant miner s9 work?